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Sunscreen and SPF: What You Really Need to Know

The days of wearing nothing more than a bikini and a smear of baby oil between your skin and the sun are long past. However, the quick trip to the drugstore for a generic bottle of SPF 15 seems almost as obsolete. As a recent article in the New York Times reports, with terms like avobenzone appearing on labels next to SPF levels topping out at 70 and above, navigating the sunscreen aisle is anything but a day at the beach. When it comes to sun safety, the line between science and hype is thinner than ever. Luckily, if you want to protect your skin from aging and reduce your risk of melanoma, there are actually only a few things to know when buying and using sunscreen.

Look for sunscreens that block both UVA and UVB rays.
The term SPF (for sun protection factor) only refers to the protection the sunscreen offers from UVB radiation, the rays that cause sunburn. However, most photoaging results from UVA rays, and both types contribute to skin cancer. Be sure to choose a product that blocks UVA and UVB. Wondering what Mexoryl SX or avobenzone mean on the label? They’re newer compounds that some high end sunscreens use for enhanced UVA protection and stability when exposed to light. Older ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide also provide great protection against UVA rays.

SPF numbers over 50 aren’t necessarily better.
New sunscreens with ever higher SPF ratings appear on shelves every summer, but there’s little additional benefit from products with an SPF above 50. No sunscreen, no matter how strong, can offer total protection, and although it sounds like SPF 100 sunscreen would offer twice the benefit of an SPF 50, this isn’t true. SPF 100 blocks 99 percent of UVB rays, but SPF 50k blocks 98 percent. Even seemingly old fashioned SPF 30 keeps 96.7 percent of UVB rays away from your skin. If your sunscreen of choice has an SPF over 30, don’t feel like you need to replace it just to chase a higher number.

Different SPFs don’t add up.
If you wear an SPF 15 sunscreen and use SPF 10 makeup, it doesn’t mean you get SPF 25 protection. You only get the ultraviolet blocking benefit of the highest single SPF product you use. Also, don’t assume that your clothes provide adequate protection for your body. While it’s always a good idea to cover us when you’ll be in the sun, a white cotton T-shirt only provides an approximate SPF 5. Darker colored or tightly woven fabrics provide much more protection, as do some specially treated UV protective clothing.

Apply plenty of sunscreen and apply it often.
When you find a sunscreen you like, the most critical thing you can do to maximize your protection is to apply it often and in adequate quantities. You need a shot glass full to cover your whole body. Skimping decimates the amount of protection you recieve. According to the New York Times, if you use half the recommended quantity of an SPF 70 sunscreen, you only get the protection of an SPF 8.4.

It’s also important to know that one application in the morning doesn’t mean you’re protected all day. Sweating, swimming, and friction all make sunscreen less effective, as does exposure to sunlight. Even if your product hasĀ  Mexoryl SX or avobenzone, both of which have improved photostability, it’s important to reapply about every two hours when you’re outside.

All sunscreens may not be created equal, but if you keep these few things in mind, its not impossible to find one that does the job. After all, the most important thing is the choice to use it consistently and correctly. Whether you choose cream, gel, or spray, if sun protection is regular part of your health and beauty routine, it helps ensure your skin stays beautiful for years to come.

For a product that blocks UV rays, evens skin tone, and provides a dose of topical antioxidants, try Perricone MD’s Active Tinted Moisturizer.

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5 Responses to “Sunscreen and SPF: What You Really Need to Know”

  1. [...] here to read the rest: Sunscreen and SPF: What You Really Need to Know Sunburn IS dangerous. Help prevent it and take 1 minute to spread the word about the [...]

  2. I wanted to know what Dr. P. thinks about the magic Tan (DHA) spray tans? Are they OK for the skin?

  3. I am curious. There is no way on earth I am about to take off all my make up every 2 hours to re-apply my sunscreen. Should I just not even bother with it if I am only going to apply it in the morning under make up? I have been using a product by La Roche- Posay, athelios sx with meroxyl. I live in Vancouver and so the sun isn’t so terrible here most of the year. If I only apply once daily how much protection am I even getting? Will age much better, enough to pay $30 a month for a tube of sunscreen?

    Please and thanks so much for your response and consideration.

  4. Dr. Perricone,

    I know that a person needs to apply an ounce of sunscreen over their entire body to get the level of protection that their sunscreen says it will provide. My question is how much does a person need to apply specifically to their face? Is there an easy way to measure, I can never be quite sure.

    Thanks so much.

  5. Can you apply sunscreen over makeup?

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